This is the fourth post in a continuing series of Bike Trail posts. Like the back roads of America, the recent interest in bike paths and rails-to-trails paths provides a new insight on “back roads”. Each Bike Path post will include surrounding information, vehicle support info and trail ratings as provided by my wife Julianne. One bike pump equals a “poor” rating while five pumps equals an “excellent” rating. We’ll also provide links to the RTC TrailLinks overview of the trail. Complete Trails Overview Post is HERE
Dawkins Line Rail Trail – Swamp Branch, KY (Click here for Trail Post with photos)
Kentucky’s longest and best Rails to Trail Bike Trail is the Dawkins Line Rail Trail which runs 18 miles from Royalton, KY (near Salyersville) to Hagerhill, KY (near Paintsville). The trail also has another 18 mile extension currently under construction.
This was the first trail that Julianne rode on her own. We ventured out ot this trail on a weekend in early June 2016. It was kind of scary as it is in an area that, in many places, is void of cell service. The roads for a support driver really meander away from the trail as well. But, according to Julianne, it is a beautiful trail to ride on.
Map of the Dawkins Line Bike TrailRoyalton, KY Post Office
Our drive from Lexington took us southeast down the Bert T. Combs Mountain Parkway from Winchester through Stanton and Campton and then into Royalton, just a few miles south of Salyersville, KY. This is a beautiful drive through the mountains of Southeast Kentucky. Royalton is on Kentucky Highway 7 which runs south from Salyersville.
Royalton Trail Town SignRoyalton Trailhead
Royalton is the main trailhead for this 18 mile trail. It is also home to the Rail Trail Festival, which we just missed the day before. There were still remnants of the event remaining in the main park area in Royalton. These included the “Got Muchies” Food Truck. I got a kick out of it and asked the owner of the truck if he knew it was misspelled and he said yes. He also said it was the painters’ mistake, but he was in a hurry and needed the truck and so decided to keep it as is. Too dang funny!
The Got Muchies TruckOne of the signs at the trailhead for Dawkins
The main trailhead, as noted above, is in Royalton. The route has three or four places along the way with parking lots and trail information.
The trail is predominantly crushed limestone but smooth to ride on according to Julianne.
Dawkins TrailOne of a number of Dawkins Trail Trestles
The trail has a number of nice trestles and bridges and the first one is only about 6 miles down the road for a driver. Basically, I had to leave Royalton and take KY 1635 west and up a hill to KY 867 which follows the Licking River. I traveled east on KY 867 to SE Licking River Road (KY 7/KY 867) and turned right toward Ivyton, where it turns into Gun Creek Road. A couple of miles down the road, Gun Creek heads northeast and there is a point where the Dawkins Trail crosses over the road.
Julianne crosses over the road on a trestle bridge near Riceville, KYJulianne makes her way down the Dawkins Trail near Ivyton, KYOne of many signs on the trestlesKY Hwy 1888 near Ivyton, KY
KY 867 after Ivyton eventually meets KY 1888 (Burning Fork Rd.) and I headed north on that road. I then made my way to Riceville, KY(via KY 1867) until I got to KY 825. From there, KY 825 follows Dawkins northbound for quite a way eventually getting to Swamp Branch, Leander, Old Ratliff Rd. and then into Denver.
One of a only a few places where the trail crosses over the highway…this one north of IvytonJunction with KY 825 near Swamp Branch RoadThe road to Swamp Branch trailhead goes off of KY 825Good signage for crossings on KY 825Dawkins Trail near Collista
At one point 825 crosses under US 460/US 23 near Paintsville, near the Lower Greasy Post Office and into Collista. The trail ends just past Collista where KY 825 intersects with KY , near Hager Hill.
End of Dawkins Tail near Hager Hill, KYSignage near Collista, KYJulianne after 17 miles on the Dawkins Trail
If you live in Lexington, make sure to visit our favorite bike shop “Bicycle Face.” (Not a paid promotion – we just like these guys!!)
Last weekend we made a trip to Damascus, VA with the goal of Julianne and our daughter Marissa riding their bikes on the Virginia Creeper Trail, one of many wonderful Rails to Trails bike trails that can be found in this part of the country.
I will have a different post about the Virginia Creeper Trail as part of my Bike Trail Series, but I wanted to post an article about the non-bike portion of our trip to Damascus, Abingdon, and Bristol, VA. Besides the bike trail, there is so much more to see and do on a road trip down to this part of Appalachia.
We began our trip by leaving early in the morning on Saturday to drive to Damascus via the towns of Hazard and Whitesburg in Kentucky on US Highways 23 and 119. Once into Virginia, we passed through the small towns of Pound and Wise.
Fog in the Mountains of SE Kentucky near WhitesburgFog in the Mountains south of Hazard, KY. The vegetation is covered with kudzuBeautiful Highway heading into Virginia at Pound Gap
The entire drive that morning was beautiful as we passed through the mountains of Kentucky and Virginia. The mountains were laced with fog and low clouds in this beautiful part of Appalachia. Many of the plants and telephone lines were covered with the invasive Kudzu (also known as Japanese Arrowroot) plant…though obnoxious, it does have its own eerie beauty.
Pound Gap Historical Sign on the Virginia BorderWelcome to VirginiaSaw this on Business 23 as we entered into Pound, VA. Tried to find a town named Donkey in VA, but couldn’t find anything. Oh well…you have a photo of the signPound, VA
Our first actual stop on the road was right as we entered the town of Pound. As we come down the hill there is a large mural painted on the side of a wall by the highway. As always, I stopped to grab a photo to add to my growing collection of wall murals from around the US and Canada. We then drove through the little village of Pound to see if there was anything interesting, which there wasn’t. But, these small little towns always have a charm about them.
Pound Mural in Pound, VA – 105 feet wide and 25 feet tall painted by Kingsport, TN Tattoo Artist Ben Rigg and Simon Henry. Represents some history of the residents of the area.The Crooked Road – Virginia’s Heritage Music Trail
Along US 23 after getting into Virginia, we came across signs that said we were on “The Crooked Road.” The Crooked Road is Virginia’s Heritage Music Trail, a driving route through the Appalachian Mountains from the Blue Ridge to the Coalfields region, following U.S. Route 58, but also with parts on U.S. Route 23.
The road winds through over 333 miles of scenic terrain in southwest Virginia, including 19 counties, four cities, and 54 towns. Famed Bluegrass musicians such as Ralph Stanley, Joe Wilson, the Carter Family Fold and others, all hailed from this area.
Crooked Road Historical Sign near the Virginia Border with KentuckyWelcome to Whitetop, VA
From Pound we made our way into Wise, VA on US 23 and just continued on the road to Damascus. Our trip eventually took us into Abingdon and then on to Damascus. From there we then went up US Highway 58 to Mount Rogers National Recreation Area and near the top of Whitetop Mountain where there is a station called Whitetop Station where the bike trail begins (actually begins about a mile away in North Carolina).
Whitetop StationDropped off my wife and daughter at Whitetop Station.Green Cove Station in Virginia
It was a beautiful drive up there and they departed on their ride down the hill. Whitetop Station is about 3500′ in altitude and Damascus is at 1952′, so in a 17 mile stretch they would drop about 1600 feet. (I’ll cover that in a separate Bike Trail Post) After dropping them off, I drove a few mile back to Green Cove Station, which is another stop along the Virginia Creeper Trail. It was packed with bikers, but is also a very scenic part of the route.
Virginia Creeper Trail shirts for sale at Whitetop Station
Both Whitetop and Green Cove have snacks, drinks and also sell some t-shirts and hats, proceeds of which go to benefit the Creeper Trail Association that maintains the trail.
The stations also carry a few tools and some spare tires, etc., that have been donated by other riders.
Certainly worth a brief visit to see their offerings if you are up that way.
A pastoral scene from near the Green Cove Station on the Virginia Creeper TrailUnique sign posting on a church in Green Cove — it is election season 2016
This area near Green Cove is dotted with Christmas Tree farms and is a lusciously pastoral environment for both the bikers and those tat are driving the back roads. The scene above is indicative (and you can see the Christmas tree grove on the left side).
At the Cross Roads of the Virginia Creeper and Appalachian Trails
From Green Cove I headed back down to the town of Damascus and drove around. Damascus touts itself as “Trail Town USA.” The reason for this is because many trails seem to converge into this town, most specifically the Appalachian Trail which is America’s most famous hiking trail and then the Virginia Creeper Bike Trail, which is one of the more well-known bike trails. There are apparently a few other trails that come through the area.
A hiker on the Appalachian Trail walks the trail into DamascusThere is a constant stream of bikers on the Creeper TrailDamascus calls itself Trail Town USA for a reason. The Appalachian Trail, the Virginia Creeper Trail and others come to a crossroads here.
Inside Sundog Outfitters in Damascus, one of many shops catering to the biking and hiking crowd
The entire town is set up to handle this “trail traffic.” There are outdoor shops, a number of bike shops that sell and rent bikes, there are outfitters that provide the things needed for hiking and camping such as tents and sleeping bags. Many of the eateries in town also cater to this type of crowd, thus giving the town a very relaxed and very friendly atmosphere. Sundog Outfitters was a great place for this and also has a large bike repair area with most of the items needed. We know as we had to get a repair done there during our visit.
A variety of t-shirts and other amenities at SunDog OutfittersHiker painting on a restroom wall in Damascus
Another thing I liked about the town was the murals. I am always looking for interesting murals and wall paintings. There are 4 or 5 murals including the Trail Town USA mural (shown above) which features a large compass and a life size mural poster of the Appalachian Trail with a pioneer on it. The Town Park features some interesting murals on the Restroom Walls…one of them I took has become one of my more popular Instagram photos. Following are a couple more I came across.
A nice representation of an old hiker on the Appalachian TrailA barber shop mural with the Appalachian Trail logo on the Barber PoleA mural of mountain scenery on the side of a building in DamascusOne of a number of murals on the side of building along the trailThe Inn on Creeper Way – one of many B&B places on the Creeper Trail in Damascus (see their site HERE)
Unfortunately, as I noted above, Julianne’s bike broke down along the first few miles of the trail and she and Marissa ended up being stranded. They made their way to the Upbeet Cafe and the Creeper Trail Cafe, located along the trail on Taylor Valley Road, but really way out of the way for a car from Damascus. Map is below.
Map of road to get from Damascus to the Creeper Trail Cafe and Upbeet CafeUpbeet Cafe Sign – near Taylors Valley, VAThe Creeper Trail Cafe is along the trail in Taylors Valley…about 20 minutes from Damascus through Tennessee and then back into Virginia.
Actually, the Upbeet Cafe, where Julianne was stranded, is further north up VA 725. Fortunately, a good Samaritan took her in a truck from the Upbeet to the famed Creeper Trail Cafe where I was able to find her and get the bike loaded.
As a result of the downed bike and the time required to drive to Taylors Valley and back to Damascus, we decided to call it a day and go again on the next day. So, we drove back into Damascus, got the bike repaired at SunDog and then found our way to a place to eat.
At Damascus Old Mill InnMural in Damascus advertising the Old Mill Inn
I am always about eating at local places when on the road and had researched to find that the Old Mill Inn in Damascus was THE place to eat in town. There are many other eateries, but this one is along the river and overlooks a scenic waterfall.
The view from our table
The thing about this unique eatery is that the menu is upscale and the dining experience is nice, but they cater to the casually dressed bikers and hikers. We were given great treatment by Kara Maguire, who is related to the owners. And we got a special treat when the Head Chef, John King, came out personally to serve us our unique and tasty dishes. All this while we sat at a table overlooking the waterfall behind the mill.
A unique Muscovy duck in the river by Old Mill InnHead Chef John King presents our dishes at the Old Mill Restaurant.
The atmosphere was casual, but the dining experience was upscale. They first brought us some Asian inspired tacos as an appetizer. These were so good that they disappeared before I could even get a photo! For dinner, Julianne got a vegan dish called Beet Risotto that included some root vegetables that had been steamed and spiced and were laid on top of the risotto. It was very tasty. I picked up a nice pulled-pork three cheese sandwich with their homemade “Mill Slaw.” Marissa had a chicken curry sandwich which was also quite amazing.
Julianne had a Beet Risotto with spiced root vegetables. It was delectableDavid had a Pulled Pork with three cheeses and their homemade “Mill Slaw”. Their tomato dipping sauce was to die for
After dinner, we spent the night in Bristol, Virginia. I had earned a free night through my Choice Hotels points and stayed at Quality Inn and Suites. It was a nice restful evening as prepared to get up early the next morning to return to Whitetop.
US Hwy 58 in Virginia, near Damascus
Our drive up to Whitetop Station on Sunday was phenomenal! Along the roadway there were many places where we saw sunbeams coming through the trees, such as the photos that I have included below. Reminded me of a reference to Paul the Apostle in Acts 9:3 in the New Testament that says: “And as he journeyed, he came near Damascus: and suddenly there shined round about him a light from heaven.” Indeed, on US 58 near Damascus, we too enjoyed the lights from Heaven on that Sabbath morning.
The Lights from Heaven on US 58 near Damascus, VAMore Lights from Heaven on US 58 near Damascus, VAMore Lights from Heaven as seen on US 58 near Damascus, VAStopped at one of the bridges on the way back to Damascus
After dropping them off on the trail, I made my way back down the road and visited a couple of the bridges and then went on to Damascus and did more driving around town to find old buildings, little bed-and-breakfast places and ultimately a place for us to eat dinner.
At one of the steel bridges on the Virginia Creeper TrailShuttle Shack – one of many business offering shuttles of bikes to the top of the mountainIn the Country Bakery and Eatery on the outskirts of Damascus
On Sunday we stopped for lunch at a place along the trail called In the Country Bakery and Eatery. There are actually many places along the trail, some of which are actually a challenge to get to via automobile but have been built specifically to handle trail traffic. I
At In the Country Cafe
already mentioned the Upbeet Cafe and Creeper Cafe above. But on this day we stopped at In the Country which sit on the outskirts of Damascus. They offer sandwiches, baked goods and home made fudge. Their food was reasonable and they had indoor and outdoor seating with a view of the trail across US 58.
Bike Parking at In the Country – a popular place on the trailReuben Sandwich and Sweet Potato Fries at In the CountryA Nice Salad Offering at In the CountryOff the Beaten Path Ice Cream in Damascus
On the same site they have a great ice cream place called Off the Beaten Path Ice Cream Shoppe. It so happened that July 17 was National Ice Cream Day so we all indulged in ice cream.
They offered about 20 different flavors and also had some sherbets so it was perfect for a very warm day.
Ice CreamIce Cream offerings at Off the Beaten PathIce Cream Chart in Off the Beaten Path… LOLCelebrating National Ice Cream Day with a nice ice cream cone at Off the Beaten PathJulianne and Marissa on the trail to Abingdon, VA
After lunch and a little relaxing Julianne and Marissa took off for the remaining 13 or 14 miles of their trip to Abingdon, Virginia on the Creeper Trail. I too made my way to Abingdon via US Highway 58 and took a couple of detours to get photos of the trail with them riding on it. I also found a couple of nice bridge shots along the way.
Apparently, the last few miles of the trail to Abingdon have a grueling gradual uphill climb, but not nearly the altitude change. Indeed, Damascus sits at 1952′ while Abingdon is at 2087′, which means about a 100′ rise. However, there was still some downhill from Damascus apparently.
Trestle #4 near Abingdon, VA – one of 47 trestles on the 32 mile trailFor obvious reasons….no parkingThis old Pepsi machine sits along the side of the Creeper Trail west of Damascus. Don’t think it works anymore — HAAn old house with License Plate Siding. This was seen along the trailBridge Number 4 near Watauga Rd. close to AbingdonWelcome to Abingdon, VA
I got to Abingdon much earlier than they did and was able to drive around the little town, which also caters to the biking crowd and to the hiking crowd. I discovered a movie complex with great wall art so had to grab a couple of shots. Always like fun Wall Art.
Main Street, including the large courthouse, in Abingdon, VAStreet corner in Abingdon, VAWall Art at the Abingdon CinemallMore art at Abingdon CinemallVirginia Creeper Welcome Center – Abingdon, VA
Abingdon has a Virginia Creeper Welcome Center at the end of the trail and it includes many old relics from the railroad and also has the last train engine to ride along that railroad from the 1980s. The final bridge, bridge number one, is the end of the trail and in that vicinity there are other little things to see.
The Old Engine of the Creeper – last train to run the rails in the 1980sSumoflam with Virginia Creeper engine in AbingdonSignage at the Abingdon Trailhead – Bridge Number 1Julianne and Marissa at the end of the trail in Abingdon – after 37 miles
After we loaded the bikes, we departed for Kentucky via Bristol, VA where we had spent the night previously. Bristol, VA is one of those unique towns that actually is split into two states. The drive along State Street will feature flags of the United States and Virginia on one side of the highway and flags of Tennessee and the United States on the other side. There are theaters, and number of murals in the town and the fairly well known large archway that welcomes people to Bristol.
Welcome to Bristol. I took this from the Tennessee side of the road.The Tennessee side of State Street in Bristol, VAPart of a large mural in BristolState Street in Bristol — left side is Tennessee, right side is Virginia, yellow line is state borderOld Wall Advertisement in BristolEnter sign at Pal’s Sudden Service
While driving through town we came across a fast food place called Pal’s Sudden Service. We didn’t stop there to eat (we were already full), but I loved the unique building design — totally quirky. And I really got a kick out of their road sign — Exercise Daily. The building only has drive thru windows and no other windows. But the giant hot dog and hamburger can’t be missed! They apparently are located mainly in east Tennessee and southwest Virginia, with 28 shops dotting this region. The company got its start in Kingsport, TN, where the original Pal’s still sits with its giant Burger Holding Muffler Man statue (looks like I need another trip!)
A Pal’s Sudden Service building. Lots of fun and it looks like the food is great too.After eating Pal’s food make sure to Exercise Daily. Couldn’t help but chuckleCumberland Gap Tunnel where Kentucky, Virginia and Tennessee meet
Our Drive back to Lexington from Bristol took us through Cumberland Gap and we were able to take the famed Cumberland Gap Tunnel which brought us into the town of Middlesboro.
Originally completed in October 1996, the tunnels each carry two-lanes of traffic. Each tunnel was bored through 4100-feet of solid rock. At the tallest point, the tunnels are 30-feet high. Cross passages, located every 300-feet, connect the two tunnels and are equipped with fire extinguishers and phones for emergency use.
Exiting the Cumberland Gap tunnel into Kentucky
Since the mountain releases approximately 450 gallons of water every minute, thick PVC liner around the tunnels ensures that the bores stay dry. Air quality is monitored constantly by electronic sensors, and ventilation fans are located every 600-feet to keep air circulating in the tunnel. Variable message board signs are located in the Cumberland Gap vicinity to warn drivers of impending hazardous traffic and weather conditions or to direct traffic flow. AM and FM radio stations can be overridden with emergency messages as well.
Welcome to Middlesboro, KY
The town of Middlesboro, KY is one a few towns in the United States or perhaps even the world, that is built completely within the confines of a meteor crater. We stopped there for dinner at a Mexican restaurant and enjoyed some fairly good food. From there we zipped back up through Barbourville and Corbin and then back into Lexington.
Sunflower taken at the end of Virginia Creeper Trail in Abingdon, VA
It was a quick two day trip, but it was very fun and the scenery was amazing. The mountains of Appalachia especially in southeast Kentucky southwest Virginia and Northeast Tennessee are very beautiful. We look forward to taking another trip to the area in October when the colors should all be changed. Needless to say, the summer brings its own variety of colors in the wildflowers, some of which I captured in digital form…another plus to a trip like this!
Flowers as seen along the Virginia Creeper TrailA field of Chicory wildflowers Virginia/Kentucky borderBee on a Chicory BloomA pink hibiscus growing near a cafe in Damascus, VA